Vietnam backpacking route – 1 to 2 itinerary

Below is my suggested Vietnam backpacking route based on travellers who are looking for a one to two-week Vietnam itinerary. Vietnam is full of stunning nature, historical sights and helpful locals. You’re sure to have a wonderful time backpacking through Vietnam, and I hope these travel tips help you plan a fantastic trip!

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Getting around Vietnam:

It’s so easy to backpack around Vietnam! You can access the first point on this itinerary from Hanoi (Vietnam’s capital city) by direct bus. You can always book night or day buses directly from your accommodation to your next stop. It is honestly the most accessible country I have ever travelled in, and accommodations are used to speaking English to tourists.

Whilst visiting each stop, you can rent a scooter or hire an easy rider (a Vietnamese guy who’ll take a round on his motorbike – great fun). Many places also had bicycles to rent or borrow – and you could walk too!

Vietnam backpacking route (1-2 week itinerary)

FLY INTO HANOI

Before we begin, it’s worth noting you will probably fly into Hanoi to begin your Vietnam adventure. Two popular activities are Halong Bay and Sapa. However, the first is exceptionally overcrowded. Although stunningly beautiful, Sapa has been noted by many as having lost its authenticity.

Should you wish to visit Halong Bay, I recommend taking the less crowded but equally beautiful Cat Ba Island route.

You could also consider Mai Chau as an alternative to Sapa. It is half the distance from Hanoi than Sapa, and you can still walk the rice fields. Or, like myself, you could simply go South to Ninh Binh below.

NINH BINH

After arriving in Hanoi – the capital city of Vietnam – the easiest way to Ninh Binh is by bus. The bus takes around 3 hours and costs around 10 USD.

Ninh Binh is known as ‘Halong Bay on land’ but with fewer tourists (though I suspect that’ll change soon). You access Ninh Binh on a direct bus from Hanoi or Halong Bay. It’s recommended you stay in Tam Coc or Trang Na – don’t stay in Ninh Binh city, as it doesn’t have the same gorgeous scenery. From your accommodation, you can rent a bicycle or scooter – or you can walk like me! 

Things to do in Ninh Binh, Vietnam

HANG MUA CAVES

Tipped as the best Vietnam view, who am I to argue? Easily accessed by bike or walking, it’s a fantastic attraction with a stunning staircase carved into the looming mountains. There are almost 500 steps, so be prepared, but it’s totally worth it.

TAM COC BOAT TOUR

If you’re keen to see the mountains looming out of the water, go on a boat ride where the locals row with their feet! Or an alternative is also the TRANG AN GROTTOES TOUR.

BICH DONG PAGODA

An ancient pagoda. It was flooded when I went, but I felt this only added to the experience and made it extra unique.

EXPLORE THE DIRT ROADS AND FARMS TRACKS

Ninh Binh is a natural wonder best enjoyed at your own pace. Since I couldn’t ride a bicycle, I walked 20km the second day, armed only with a playlist, and loved every minute of it. For those cycling, check out the Homestay Loop – ask about your accommodation, as many provide maps, or look on google maps. Honestly, on the dirt tracks, I saw NO ONE else. Very tranquil.

PHONG NHA

Phong Nha was one of the most heavily bombed areas during the Vietnam War because it was part of the supply route from North to South Vietnam. People hid in caves during the day and did all the work at night, even farming. It is now a peaceful place, surrounded by gorgeous nature and with a surprisingly good tourist infrastructure in place.

Hiring an easyrider in Phong Na for one day was 11 pounds. I asked my hostel Easy Tiger to help. You can rent your own for less money, giving you more freedom.

Alternatively, you can borrow a bicycle from your hostel. This is only recommended for stops which are near the main town. Exploring the National Park itself – including key locations such as Paradise Cave – is recommended on scooters due to the long distances and hilly roads.

Things to do in Phong Nha, Vietnam

PARADISE CAVE

The cave was discovered in 2005 by the British cave association. 1km of the massive 36km cave is open to tourists. No list of things to do in Phong Nha would be complete without this mighty cave network!

The walk up to the cave entrance is steep. It has a well-made sloping footpath or steps, but you can also get a buggy each way for 10K.

This place has to be seen to be believed. I’ve seen a LOT of caves while travelling, and frankly? This one ruined all the others for me! It really is like walking into another planet – the most otherworldly place I’ve experienced. Unfortunately, I found it very hard to photograph – the scale of it is beyond what my camera can take in.

The limestone formations loom all around the wooden boardwalk, and the artificial lighting creates an increasingly mystical effect.

Entrance cost: 250,000 VND per person

PHONG NAH CAVES BOAT TOUR

It was strange to think of people hiding in the caves during the war whilst bombers outside targeted the entrance to the cave. They even had to bring the supply bridges inside the cave during the daytime! The stalactites and stalagmites were incredible, like ominous giant jellyfish.

These caves are close to the main town – in fact, you may even be able to walk there from your hostel. So whilst it’s not as spectacular as the other caves, it’s still a beautiful spot perfect for when you have a couple of hours free.

Entrance fee: 150,000 VND

DARK CAVE (HANG TOI)

This is a more ‘activity-based’ cave experience in which you zipline or kayak into the cave and walk through deep mud wearing a headlamp. Apparently, all that mud is good for your skin, though; who knows? They say only bring clothes you don’t mind getting ruined (nothing white).

The reviews are pretty mixed, with some calling it a tourist trap and others saying it was loads of fun. Maybe it depends on how fun you find mud.

Entrance fee: 250,000 VND (low season) or 450,000 VND (high season)

HIRING A SCOOTER OR EASY RIDER TO TAKE YOU AROUND PHONG NHA-KE BANG NATIONAL PARK

The loop is scenic and gorgeous! It’s a fantastic way to see some of Vietnam’s best landscapes, still untouched by the swarms of tourists surrounding other areas such as Ha Long Bay. Along the way, you can make stops at Paradise Cave, the Botanic Garden, the Dark Cave and more.

PHONG NHA BOTANIC GARDEN

Entering through a jungle forest, Phong Nha Botanic Garden is wilder than any other I’ve been to. Most guests will pick from a short 1-hour or longer 3-hour loop  from which to walk around the ‘garden’ – don’t expect any flower displays or cute fountains

There’s a waterfall you can swim in, but the descent is not via a proper footpath – instead, you’ll be scrambling over slippery rocks. I wasn’t really prepared for this short but challenging hike down – you’ll need trainers or hiking shoes, not flip-flops. The viewpoint (pictured below) was very pretty.

Remember your mosquito spray for this activity, or prepare to get bitten. 🙂 I also ate lunch at the restaurant here – just vegetable noodles.

Entrance fee: 40,000 VND 

GRAB A BICYCLE AND HEAD TO ‘DUCK STOP’…

‘Duck Stop’ is literally a place where a guy owns lots of ducks and gives feed to tourists, so the ducks all run at them. Sound weird? It’s one of the top-rated attractions in Phong Nha, with glowing reviews all around. If you fancy a giggle, it’s the place to go.

The activity is run by a local family and offers endless ridiculous photo opportunities.

Entrance fee: 150,000 VND (includes a pancake and drink)

…& PUB WITH COLD BEER

At the same time, you can head to ‘Pub with Cold Beer.’ Apparently, it got the name after some tourists got sick drinking beer with ice on a hot day (the water is not drinkable in Vietnam) so a fabled local one day bought a fridge! Thus, the Pub With Cold Beer was a must-visit for any tourists who fancied a drink.

Backpacking Accommodation in Phong Nha:

Easy Tiger is an excellent hostel in the heart of Phong Na – and you can take advantage of it even if you don’t stay there. For people staying, it had a jungle theme and pool and loads of food options on sight. But best of all, every morning at around 09:15, they do a talk about everything there is to do in Phong Na – and everyone is welcome! They encourage backpackers to share costs, making it easy for me as a solo. They will tell you all the activities and how to get to them and provide maps along with the best places to hire scooters or bicycles.

HUE

Many people don’t rate Hue, but I think this is down to the lesser-known sights (except perhaps the highlight below). It is home to the Imperial City – part of its vast, 19th-century citadel, full of shrines and palaces – and the Forbidden Purple City. Despite so many beautiful attractions, it was disturbingly also where the Battle of Hue took place – in 1968, thousands of people were killed.

Read more: Is Hue worth visiting? Pros and Cons

Things to do in Hue

THE ABANDONED WATERPARK

Whilst there are loads of tales of people sneaking into the park and dodging security, I found it very easy to enter the park! I think it was super easy to get there because I had hired a local guide for the day (along with his scooter).

They spent 3 million US dollars to create the waterpark for families, yet now I was wandering around over barbed wire and broken glass. Although it’s not officially open to the public, everyone goes… A must-do unique experience for your Vietnam itinerary.

VONG CANH HILL LOOKOUT

Who doesn’t love a viewpoint? On the outskirts of the imperial city, Vong Canh Hill overlooked the serene Perfume River and was incredibly peaceful. The park here is a really lovely way to break up visiting busy tourist attractions.

A visit to the park or river is undoubtedly the most romantic way to escape Hue’s crowds and traffics. As well as being a welcome retreat from the heat.

TU DUC TOMB

Tu Duc is sometimes considered the last emperor of Vietnam and died in 1883. He had no children but 104 wives and even more concubines… sounds stressful, right? His tomb is, however, surprisingly tranquil, grand architecture scattered around a moat and lily ponds.

Noticed by many as being the most beautiful of the Nguyen emperor’s tombs, Tu Duc Tomb is highly recommended if you only have time to visit one. It is a vast and elaborate site which thus does not get too crowded.

PAGODA OF THE CELESTIAL LADY / THIEN MU PAGODA

The perfect way to end a day exploring Hue. My local guide (aka scooter driver) told me all about the folklore surrounding the temple and that it’s the tallest religious building in Vietnam.

IMPERIAL CITY

Hue is home to the Imperial City – a vast 19th-century citadel full of shrines and palaces  – and the Forbidden Purple City. From 1802 – 1945, Vietnam was ruled by the Nguyen Dynasty, who had their capital here. This is where the many emperors once lived, crawling with history.

It’s worth noting that many buildings were damaged during WW2 and the Vietnam War, but enough remains intact to make it worth a visit nonetheless.

LEARN ABOUT THE WAR AT THE DEMILITARIZED ZONE

For a real insight into the divisions created during the war, visit the battleground demarcation line between the Communist North and free South that divided the country into 2 separate states.

HOI VAN PASS

I hired an easy rider for around $35 USD to take me on the 137km journey from Hue to Hoi An. This local guide was so friendly and made the day really enjoyable. This is a great way to travel from Hue to either Hoi An or Danang visa the spectacular winding mountain road.

Since the whole day was a highlight, I will simply list the stops in order:

Stops along the Hoi Van Pass:

ELEPHANT SPRINGS

A real-life gorgeous waterfall with man-made pools underneath. It was great to relax here for a bit, despite being very crowded, as it was such a hot day. A bizarre elephant statue is cut into the rock, and so many different pools of different sizes stretch up the mountain. Very touristy but bizarrely pretty fun!

LANG CO BEACH

Although it was mostly a seafood option, I found a veggie option. There wasn’t much there, but the beach was pretty and sandy. I was keen to move on, though, because the next stop was…

THE HOI VAN PASS

Of course, this 21km mountain pass was the highlight of the day! The views were incredible, and it felt great to feel the wind rushing past us as the bike scaled the winding roads.

MARBLE MOUNTAINS

After a refreshing ice cream break, I explored the inside of the mountain. There are creepy figures carved into the mountain that get more and more disturbing as you walk further in—quite an experience.

HOI AN

This was my last stop in Vietnam. I flew from here to Singapore after spending a few relaxing days strolling along the riverbank and enjoying the many glowing lanterns which line the old town. Hoi An is a popular spot for those staying in Vietnam long term due to its charming cafe culture and abundant local historic sights, and nearby beaches.

Things to do in Hoi An:

• eat outdoors on the bustling streets, admiring the lanterns. There are many cute cafes and both local and western-style restaurants to choose from.
• get clothes tailored! I got a couple of dresses made here, which was so much fun.
• go for a Vietnamese massage – honestly so cheap
• visit the old quarter
• See the Japanese bridge
• Try egg coffee – way nicer than I expected!
• Take a cooking class or cooking tour – my hostel held tours three times a week!
• cycle to the beach or take a boat trip to the highly recommended Cham Island
• Click here for a full three-day Hoi An itinerary.

CHAM ISLANDS

You should also consider staying with locals overnight on Cham Island! I spoke to other backpackers who found this an authentic and fun way to enjoy more of what Vietnam offers.

These beautiful islands are two hours boat ride from Hoi An and a perfect place for diving and snorkelling.

Visit MY SON CHAMPA RUINS – HOI AN

The Champa city of My Son was occupied from the 4th to 13th century. It was a dominant city for Cham people due to its defensible location and was an essential Hindu temple complex. The area was heavily bombed during the Vietnam War in 1969, and now just 18 of the approximately 70 structures documented initially remain. Landmines likely remain in the surrounding area – beautiful but dangerous and a reminder of this country’s tragic past.

How to tie this into a longer Vietnam itinerary:

GO NORTH: Those on a more extended trip can still easily access beautiful Sapa (to hike the rice fields), Halong Bay, motorcycle around Ha Giang, or spend 2 days in Hanoi before embarking on the following itinerary. I personally did Sapa, Hanoi and Halong Bay and was unable to go to Ha Giang.

GO SOUTH: This itinerary ends in Hoi An, but from there, you can easily go South and spend a day in Ho Chi Min City– definitely a good option for anyone interested in history. Add Mui Ne to your Vietnam itinerary if you’re after something unique (it has red sand dunes!), the An Giang Province or Dalat if you love nature.

TRAVEL SUSTAINABLY IN VIETNAM

To avoid using plastic bottles in Southeast Asia, I used a Water To Go bottle.

Most travellers will require a visa to enter Vietnam, which you can organise in advance. Check below to see your requirements. I personally used and paid for the iVisa service in 2020, and it’s a website I would genuinely recommend.