Solo Travel in Kyoto and my Search to find Magic in Japan + itinerary

This is a personal post about my experiences with solo travel in Kyoto; what I did, what felt magical, and the honest truggles of travelling alone in a new city.

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However, if you’re looking for general tips to help you plan your solo trip to Japan, I recommend you check out my guide to solo travel in Japan.

Kyoto was the city of my dreams until I got there.

How could a place with such a rich history, with which I had a deep fascination for a lifetime, feel so… strange? Apologies for the vague adjective but there was something Off about Kyoto that surprised and perplexed me.

Was it me, a solo female traveller in need of someone to be excited with? Or was it the city?

It was not the over-tourism (which, in itself, would be a rather hypocritical complaint for a tourist to make) but, perhaps, the exhaustion of being a solo traveller in a place where it is so hard to escape the crowds. I likened the city to a real-life version of one of those miniature villages – whilst the history was fascinating, there was a constant dissonance between myself and the city I was walking in. A lack of connection, I think; as if the entire place was not full of centuries-old structures of wander, but merely replicas made of plastic. I was walking through one, giant attraction rather than a living, breathable city with attractions within it, as one might say about Tokyo or London.

Perhaps Kyoto was simply not unique enough after reading and researching too much about it previously. Perhaps I was in need of snow-covered onsens or more overt magic in the form of Nabana no Sato’s flower theme park. I did, later, spend four days solo hiking in Japan and ended my trip with one-week backpacking Kyushu, complete with its multi-coloured hell swamps and an active volcano. So I did find beauty and surprises elsewhere.

But, hating to feel so narrow-minded about Kyoto, I was determined to change my mind by the time I left. So on that note…

The challenge of solo travel in Kyoto

In Kyoto, even moments of apparent solitude from the crowds are notoriously competitive. Travelling to hot destinations and snapping a crowd-free photo is almost a rite of passage for wannabe bloggers and photographers. The sense of accomplishment I felt at 7:30am having achieved my ‘alone in the woods’ photo moment in a famed bamboo grove before the Swarms started appearing was silly and temporary. Although I would recommend heading to the Grove early, I was soon left feeling deflated. Was this really the closest I would get to finding the magic in Kyoto? A photograph which LOOKED like I had found the magic in Kyoto?

I struggled to work out why solo female travel in Japan had been so difficult. Was it the introverted society here or the fact Japan has so many interesting quirks which would be more fun to discuss and enjoy with a friend? Or perhaps the lack of backpackers – in four weeks in Japan, I spent barely any time with other travellers and at times went days without a conversation.

While touted as a top solo travel destination due to its safety, clean neighbourhoods and ease of transport, Japan is also one of the most lonely destinations. My dream trip still might be Japan, but it’s to go and relive it with a friend. And that’s unusual for me – often I find solo travel empowering.

One to two weeks in Kyushu itinerary, Japan. (inc costs)

In Northern Higashiyama, a slightly less crowded tourist spot in Kyoto, I did find momentary solace.

Despite the crowds, I was wowed by Ginkakuji Temple and it’s meticulously landscaped garden along with the forest which framed it. In between temples (in this district, you can walk between four key temples via the famous ‘philosopher’s walk’) I gleefully lost sign of all other visitors as I sauntered onwards. The moment was brief but appreciated.

I must note that I believe that my complacency was not the fault of the city, but with myself and the way in which I was travelling. My budget gave me a lack of flexibility (no meals out, traditional performances at Gion Corner or kimono experiences for budget backpackers) and the crowds brought a peculiar poignancy to the fact I was alone. And so, my lifelong draw to Kyoto gave me expectations that couldn’t be met.

Since leaving, almost all the couples/groups I met enjoyed Kyoto, whereas solo travellers were not so keen – one long-term traveller even said ‘In all my years travelling, Kyoto was the first place I ever felt lonely.’

So… did I end up finding magic in Kyoto?

It was my last day in the city and I arrived at Fushimi Inari Shrine at 7am. This is a beloved attraction of Kyoto, and its row of torii gates are so striking it’s hard to imagine that any visitor couldn’t help but fall in love with them. Ironically, since I was searching for a respite from the commercialism, Inari was worshipped as the patron of business and thus the gorgeous gates had each been donated by a Japanese business, believing it will wish them well. Yet still, this was the place that granted me my own wish of finding magic in Kyoto.

As I hiked the famous mountain under the waves of morning light that seeped through the gaps in the red tunnel above, the torii gates got sparser. Graciously, so did the tourists. At last, after travelling through a city so crowded that it was hard to truly comprehend the spiritual nature of Kyoto’s past, I found myself in solitude. I felt calm.

And so, I continued up the steps to the summit of Inari mountain with only a series of fox statues to keep me company. The foxes, regarded as messengers, were both strange and sweet as they stared back at me each time I crossed them. A hike in the early morning light, a mountain of the greenest leaves and the deepest red torii gates: this was where Kyoto still remains a city for dreamers. The foxes were silent and all I could hear was my feet treading upon each step and the crows swooping overhead.

Kyoto is a place of commercialised culture, expensive meals and swarms of people. But here, out of breath and a little tired, I finally found that there IS still magic to be found in this place – you just have to be willing to earn it.

Kyoto Itinerary for Solo Travellers:

Trying to plan a trip to Japan is tricky, and making a Kyoto itinerary can be mind-boggling. You can try to google which temples are best to visit, but hundreds of temples later and you’ll find yourself more confused than before you started. Really the temples you visit might depend on your time constraints and your accommodation, but there are a few that come up as top recommendations time and time and again. If I’d had more time, I would have also added in a day trip to Nara, to see the famous local deers.

This is a 3-4 day Kyoto itinerary covering the best temples and other activities.

DAY ONE AND TWO IN KYOTO

Temple Spotting along the Philosopher’s Walk

You could shorten this for one day by just visiting Kiyomizu-dera, Gion and Ginjakuji. You could technically also do the full walk in one day. Personally, on the first day I arrived off a night bus travelling from Tokyo, so I was quite tired and split up the walk. I used Willer Express for my night bus, a safe and budget-friendly way to travel in Japan

Kiyomizu-dera

Begin the walk at Kiyomizu-dera Temple. Out of all the temples on this walk, this and the last one are my favourites – I’ve tried to ensure that whichever order you do the walk, you will end on a treat. Alongside being home to a great view of Kyoto, the temple also is home to the famous, red pagoda.

Chion-in

For me, the highlight of visiting this temple was actually the walkthrough Maruyama Park. To my left, I also saw Yasaka Shrine which I adored.

Shoren-in

Another, smaller temple on the other side of the park

Take a walk through Gion

At a perfect midway point is Gion. It’s a slight detour, but unquestionably a worthwhile one. Gion was the home of geishas in times gone by and many visitors still believe they spot geishas here, though usually, they have actually spotted a tourist doing a Kimono experience.

Gion Corner is also where you can watch traditional Japanese performances, although this was out of my budget at over 3000 yen. These usually happen in the evening at 6pm and 7pm. If you are also on a budget, you can see a list of free things to do in Kyoto here.

While you’re here, don’t forget to check out Ponto-Cho across the river although it is best to visit at night when all the lanterns are lit up.

 Also, Kennen-ji is another temple next to Gion, but at this point, you may be more inclined to rest your feet and get some lunch.

Nanzen-ji

Nanzen-ji mixes things up a little, at least as far as temples go, with its distinctive red brick arches

Zenrinji/Eikan-do

I confess I didn’t make it into this particular temple as it required an entry fee.

Walk down the ‘Philosopher’s Path’

Somehow I managed to find all the other tourists on this part of the walk, which was very beautiful. The famous walk follows alongside a canal. 

It’s a great walk to do during March as this is Cherry Blossom season and sakura trees line the path! Although, to avoid the biggest crowds and enjoy equally photogenic fall foliage, you may prefer visiting Japan in Autumn.

Honen-in

Ginkakuji

 Ginkakuji temple has the most beautiful moss-covered garden and was my favourite part of the walk. It also has the most incredible view over Kyoto and tall thin trees.

Day three in Kyoto

ARASHIYAMA BAMBOO GROVE

Note: the bamboo grove is quite short and some people have found it disappointing, especially if they come at midday when it’s packed with tourists. Visit first thing for a peaceful walk and combine in with Tenryuji Temple next door to make the most out of your visit.

TENRYU-JI TEMPLE

ARABICA KYOTO ARASHIYAMA

An awesome coffee spot a stone’s throw away from the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.

Arashiyama Monkey Park (OPTIONAL)

KINKAKU-JI

The famous golden temple

Day four in Kyoto

FUSHIMI INARI TAISHA

(described above)

NIJO CASTLE

Nijo Castle surpassed my expectations. It has better information boards than many of the temples so is a must-see for anyone interested in Japanese history.

Kyoto Imperial palace park

A relaxing garden to chill at the end of your stay in Kyoto

FIRST-TIME IN JAPAN?

Get your 7-day JR Rail Pass in advance with a 4G Sim card included.

Or simply save time by purchasing your 4G Sim card in advance – you can pick it up from the airport when you arrive!

See the iconic Mt Fuji on a day tour from Tokyo.

Book top-rated travel insurance with World Nomads. They have flexible insurance options which you can even book when you’re already on the road.

Check GetYourGuide for a list of current and popular tours.

Why not find the magic of Japan on this stunning and spiritual pilgrimage trail?

Solo Hiking the Kumano Kodo – 4 day itinerary – Japan’s spiritual heartland

Or by reading these great novels set in Japan before you go?